DELACK ASSEMBLY GUIDE
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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for your purchase of the DELACK Enclosure!
Although we tried to make the build as straightforward as possible, we decided to make this assembly guide for the DELACK enclosure so that each step would be easy to follow. If anything seems difficult to understand, please feel free to reach out to us so that we improve the build process for others!
FAQ
What print settings should I use?
For the DELACK Enclosure, we recommend 0.20mm layer height using a 0.4mm nozzle (the standard nozzle on most 3D printers).
We made many features for this layer height and nozzle diameter, so we strongly recommend using these settings in order to get the best results.
How much filament does the enclosure build require?
Approximately 50% of a single 1KG roll will be used to print all DELACK parts if you have no print failures with the print settings listed above.
What type of filament should I use for the printable parts?
You can print the DELACK in any filament that you prefer, but we do recommend printing the LED Light parts in a higher-temperature filament such as PETG or ASA.
How long will the prints take?
With a Prusa MK4 printing at 0.20 mm layer height with the “Quality” settings selected, the prints take 46 hours (this is the time WITHOUT input shaping).
Good luck getting everything printed before Amazon delivers the kit!
What color should I print the parts for my enclosure?
We printed our example enclosure with PolyMaker PolyLite PLA in Stone Blue. For the LED Light Cover, we used black Prusament PETG.
Be sure to share your build with us on social media!
BILL OF MATERIALS
Review Bill of Materials (BOM)
BOM of DELACK Enclosure
***You WILL NOT use all of the included fasteners. We have included extras for future accessories and for you to customize your enclosure as needed.***
PLEXIGLASS TIP FOR ASSEMBLY
The plexiglass will come covered in a protective film. OUR CURRENT PROTECTIVE FILM IS TRANSPARENT TO CHECK FOR DEFECTS PRIOR TO SHIPPING. We recommend removing the film around the corners and around the holes as you assemble, but wait until the enclosure is fully assembled to remove the remainder of the film to avoid unnecessary scratches. Also, be careful with the door frame (especially after attaching the door) because this part that can easily be cracked.
To avoid spending an excess amount of time removing the protective wrapping, pull the wrapping TOWARDS you instead of upwards (counterintuitive but it works). This prevents the protective covering from tearing and allows you to remove the majority of the covering in a single piece.
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BAD FORM
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GOOD FORM
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NUT INSTALL TIP FOR ASSEMBLY
Some of the steps will involve adding press-fit nuts into the parts. If you are having trouble getting the nuts to fully seat into the part, try this tip where you use a bolt to pull the nut into the correct location.
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STEP 1
Grab a spare bolt and loosely place the nut in place
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STEP 2
Add the bolt to the hole and thread into the nut
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STEP 3
Using an Allen wrench, tighten the bolt until it becomes snug
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STEP 4
The nut should be pulled into place by the bolt from the opposite site
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STEP 5
Remove the bolt from the piece and repeat if needed for other nuts
GETTING STARTED
Before we begin with the enclosure assembly, some printers require small modifications in order to function correctly inside of the DELACK Enclosure. Feel free to skip this section if you have a printer that is different from the ones listed below.
*THE PRUSA MK4 & PRUSA MINI DO NOT REQUIRE ANY MODIFICATIONS!
Printer Modifications
Prusa MK2/MK3 Modifications
Head Bed Cable Cover (REQUIRED)
0 - GETTING STARTED -> PRUSA PRINTER MODIFICATIONS -> [PRINTER TYPE] -> PSU WIRE GUIDE REPLACEMENT
Please replace the heat bed cable cover with a new PSU Wire Guide Replacement part set to reduce the stress on the heat bed cable. If you are upgrading from a LACK enclosure, you may have already completed this step. All files were taken from the websites listed below; please refer to the links as needed for assembly.
60 Degree PSU Cover for MK3/MK3S
30 Degree PSU Cover for MK2/MK2S
Silver PSU Elbow is recommended for MK3/MK3S
POWER SUPPLY UNIT (PSU) Relocation (OPTIONAL)
0 - GETTING STARTED -> PRUSA PRINTER MODIFICATIONS -> [PRINTER TYPE] -> PSU BRACE REPLACEMENT
If you would like to relocate your PSU to a location outside of the enclosure, you will need to print a PSU Brace Replacement part to maintain the printer's rigidity. All files were sourced from the links below.
***While it is generally recommended by Prusa to remove the PSU from the enclosure due to the heat exposure on the electronics, we have never had an issue with any of our printers after having the PSU inside of the Universal Enclosure for over 5 years.***
If you would rather add a base to your PSU so it can stand freely, we have a Prusa MK3 Silver PSU Base part available for the original silver PSU for the MK3.
STANDARD BUILD PRINTS
The Standard Build consists of 8 sets of prints. If you print the 8 print sets, you will be able to assemble the entire enclosure. We have created a Standard Build Print List of all required parts for the DELACK Enclosure.
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STANDARD BUILD PRINT LIST
DELACK Standard Build Print List
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Print #
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File
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Quantity
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Required?
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Variations?
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1
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FOOT
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4
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YES
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NO
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1
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TOP CORNER
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4
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YES
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YES
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1
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SIDE CORNER
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4
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YES
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NO
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2
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DOOR KNOB
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1
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YES
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NO
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2
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DOOR KNOB BACK
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1
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YES
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NO
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2
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BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER
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1
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YES
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YES
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2
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FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT
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1
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YES
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NO
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3
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NAMEPLATE | 1 |
YES
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YES
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4
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TOP MIDDLE SUPPORTS |
3
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YES
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YES
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| 5 | HINGE ON RIGHT OR LEFT STL SET | 2 sets | YES | YES |
| 6 | LATCH SET | 2 sets | YES | NO |
| 7 | FAN HOLE COVER | 1 | NO | YES |
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7
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NUT SPACER
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4
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NO
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NO
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| 8 | CORNER COVERS | 4 | NO | YES |
STANDARD BUILD PART OPTIONS
The prints listed below have various part options, so you should review the prints below to see if you would like to modify your build from the Standard Build.
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Print #1 - TOP CORNER SELECTION
Top Corner Selection
The default print for the 1 - FEET + TOP CORNERS + SIDE CORNERS has the standard TOP CORNER part we recommend most people print.
If you are planning to add internal wiring or something like the TP-LINK TAPO or WYZE CAM V3 to your DELACK Enclosure, we recommend printing a TOP CORNER WITH CABLE CHANNEL for better cable management.
Print #2 - BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER SELECTION
Back Bottom Wire Cover Selection
The default wire cover is the BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER SINGLE, made for the power cable of the Prusa 3D printer - it fits snugly around the wire, centering it in the middle of the cutout while still allowing you to remove the enclosure from around the printer without unplugging the printer.
BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER SINGLE
For anyone who might add additional wires, you can pick from any of the 3 alternative wire covers for various alternative configurations. Another option is to leave the back cutout open, without a wire cover, if you would prefer the maximum amount of space for cables.
BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER MULTI - STACKED
BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER MULTI - WIDE
BOTTOM WIRE COVER OPEN
Print #3 - FRONT NAMEPLATE SELECTION
Front Nameplate Selection
The default print for the 3 - FRONT NAMEPLATE is the print with the filament change. Since this print only takes a total of 24 minutes, it's easy to have the filament swap occur when you are near the printer to change out the filament. We recommend starting with the accent color (black in the example below) and switching the color back to the color you made the rest of the printed parts (blue in our example).
If you want to customize the nameplate, a blank STL is available (NAMEPLATE BLANK.stl). This is the STL you should use if you want to add the text using the new embossing feature within PrusaSlicer.
We have also provided the STEP and Fusion 360 files if you want to customize the nameplate in CAD. We recommend extruding the text 0.4mm and adding the filament swap on the 3rd layer using 0.2mm as your layer height.
To add a filament swap, import your model and select "Slice", then move the layer height to 0.60mm (if you have selected 0.2mm layer height) and click the "+" (yellow arrow) to add a filament swap.
Print #4 - TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT SELECTION
Top Middle Support Selection
The primary decision to make here is whether or not you would like to add the LED Light accessory print to the DELACK Enclosure.
If you DO NOT want to add the LED Light, you should print 3 TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT pieces.
If you DO want to add the LED Light, you should print 2 TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT pieces.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE LED ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Alternatively, you could print 1 TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT and print the DELACK HEX CROSSBEAM, which spans the top of the enclosure to add additional support. However, this print is NOT compatible with the LED Light.
Print #5 - HINGE SELECTION
Hinge Selection
There are 2 versions of the hinge. When looking at the front of the enclosure, you will need to choose whether you want the hinge to be on the right or left of the door.
Print #6 - LATCH SELECTION
Latch Selection
The latches are symmetrical, so there are no alternatives for now! Print on!
The holes for the magnets are precise, so you will need to apply some force for the magnets to fit. The easiest way to press the magnets into place is to use a metal tool with a flat surface.
Place the magnet on the flat surface of the tool to begin
Position the magnet over the hole
Press firmly down on the top of the tool
The magnet should now be flush with the latch! Make sure you add the magnets so that they attract each other depending on the piece you are working on!
Print #7 - FAN COVER SELECTION
Fan Hole Cover Selection
If you DO NOT plan on adding a fan to your enclosure, consider printing a FAN HOLE COVER for the DELACK. For the bolts to fit correctly with the FAN HOLE COVER, you will need to print x4 NUT SPACER prints - these are included in the print set.
If you DO want to add a fan to your 3D printer enclosure, you SHOULD NOT print the Fan Hole Cover. Please choose from the options below:
Option #1: 120mm Fan
You can add a 120mm Noctua Fan without any additional prints; use the screws included in the kit to attach it to the DELACK.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE 120MM FAN ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Option #2: 120mm Fan with HEPA Filter
If you would like to add an air filter to your fan setup, use the link below for more details on the HEPA Filter print.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE HEPA FILTER ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Option #3: 120mm Fan with Air Duct Attachment
To add a duct to the DELACK enclosure, print the Air Duct Attachment by following the link below.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE 4-INCH AIR DUCT MOUNT ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Option #4: 120mm Fan with HEPA Filter + Air Duct Attachment
For a print set containing a HEPA Filter and an Air Duct Attachment, follow this link.
CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE HEPA + DUCT ASSEMBLY GUIDE
Print #8 - CORNER COVER SELECTION
Corner Cover Selection
While the corner covers are not required for the DELACK enclosure to be functional, we STRONGLY recommend that you use them. There are two options of corner covers to choose from - a version with ribs and a plain version.
Corner Cover with Ribs
Corner Cover Plain
Modular Top Corner
If you're looking to add some additional functionality to the corner of your printer, consider adding this Modular Top Corner Accessory Print to your setup.
CLICK HERE FOR THE MODULAR TOP CORNER ASSEMBLY GUIDE
STANDARD BUILD ASSEMBLY
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Print #1 Assembly
Print #1 Assembly
Feet
Before adding the FEET to the plexiglass, insert a rubber plug into each foot. The bottom of the rubber plug should be flat, with the side of the plug with a hole in it facing upwards, as shown below.
Add 2 nuts to each of the FEET as well (using a total of 8 nuts). The nuts should fit snugly, but you may need to use a spare bolt to pull the nut into the hex cutout.
After adding the plugs and nuts, add the FEET to the SIDE PANELS. Make sure that you add the FEET to the BOTTOM of the SIDE PANELS. The easiest way to check that you are adding the FEET to the correct side is by putting the FEET on the side of the panel WITHOUT the two holes in the middle (red circle & green circle). These two holes are for the Middle Support pieces, which are for the top of the enclosure.
After adding the feet, your 3D printer enclosure should look similar to what is pictured below.
Top Corners
The TOP CORNERS have a cutout for 3 nuts per piece (2 for the sides and 1 for the top). We recommend adding the two side nuts initially, as the nuts for the top are optional and can sometimes fall out during assembly.
Once you've added the nuts to the TOP CORNERS, add the TOP CORNERS to the two side panels using bolts. The TOP CORNERS will be positioned opposite to the FEET (on the same side as the two holes in the middle for the Middle Support). Once completed, both sides should have TOP CORNERS and FEET.
Side Corners
Next, add 2 nuts to each of the 4 SIDE CORNERS and add these to the SIDE PANELs.
Print #2 Assembly
Print #2 Assembly
Door Knob
Add 2 nuts to the DOOR KNOB BACK print.
Locate the DOOR plexiglass panel, and determine which direction you would like the door to swing. Using 2 bolts, attach the DOOR KNOB and the DOOR KNOB BACK to the DOOR panel according to your chose swing direction.
The image below shows a door that will swing to the right.
Print #3 Assembly
Print #3 Assembly
Nameplate & Front Middle Support (from Print #2)
Slide your NAMEPLATE into the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT from Print #2. Hope you customized it!
Add the 2 side nuts to the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT - you can add the top nut later.
Attach the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT to the DOOR FRAME plexiglass piece using 2 bolts.
Print #4 Assembly
Print #4 Assembly
Middle Support
After printing your MIDDLE SUPPORTS, add 2 nuts to each MIDDLE SUPPORT and attach them to the SIDE plexiglass panels using bolts.
If you decide to go with an alternate arrangement of MIDDLE SUPPORTS as described here, add the MIDDLE SUPPORTS to the relevant locations according to your selection.
Intermission - Wall Assembly
Wall Assembly
Now, we can assemble the walls of the enclosure. Add the BACK plexiglass panel to one of the SIDE plexiglass panels first.
Next, add the other SIDE plexiglass panel.
Now, add the DOOR FRAME to the front of the enclosure.
Getting closer!
Print #5 Assembly
Print #5 Assembly
Please refer to the link here for determining which HINGE to print. The HINGE print set has manual supports, so you will need to remove the supports from the part prior to installing the HINGE. The supports should break off easily using pliers.
After removing the supports from both sides of the hinge, place the dowel rod into both sets of HINGE parts. The opening of the HINGE where the dowel rod is inserted should be facing upwards when the hinge is in its final position (as shown below). The HINGE will swing more freely over time, so don’t worry if the HINGE initially feels tight.
A trick for pressing the dowel rod into place is to use the side of your needle nose pliers (or any other flat tool) to push the dowel rod into place.
After adding the dowel rod to both HINGE prints, add nuts (8 in total) to each HINGE BACK print. You may need to use the bolts to pull the nuts into position by tightening them from the opposite side of the part.
Now, attach the HINGE to the DOOR FRAME plexiglass panel. The HINGE BACK part should fit inside the holes in the plexiglass. THIS WILL BE HARD TO TIGHTEN!! We intentionally made these parts tight so that the door would not sag. You can tighten these parts more than the other parts in this build because there is no direct contact between the metal nuts/bolts and the plexiglass (but don't overdo it).
Next, add the DOOR plexiglass panel to the HINGES in a similar manner as you did previously. We recommend adding the bolts in the order mentioned below; starting with the lowest bolt lets you rest the other end of the plexiglass panel on the ground, reducing the stress on the DOOR FRAME.
Now, the door should be swinging freely. If the door does not swing correctly, try to adjust the positioning of the hinges by loosening the bolts slightly, moving the door in the direction needed, and re-tightening.
Print #6 Assembly
Print #6 Assembly
Latch Set
The most important part of LATCH assembly is to make sure that the magnets are attracting each other. The magnets should fit snugly into the magnet hole, but you may need to use the side of your pliers to press the magnets into place.
A tip for inserting the magnets is to use the side of the needle nose pliers as shown below to press the magnets into place. It is a tight fit (to prevent the magnets from getting pulled out when you open the door), so you should expect to press pretty firmly.
After making sure that the magnets are attracting each other, add the LATCH set with the cutout in the design to the DELACK DOOR FRAME as shown below.
Next, add the LATCH to the DOOR. Double-check that the magnets attract each other before placing them.
Now, the DELACK is almost finished!
Print #7 Assembly
Print #7 Assembly
Fan Hole Cover
For information about alternatives to the FAN HOLE COVER, please click here.
To install the FAN HOLE COVER, add 1 nut to each of the 4 NUT SPACER prints.
Add the FAN HOLE COVER to the BACK plexiglass panel using 4 bolts.
Finishing Touches
Finishing Touches
Adding the Printer
Now is an excellent time to place the enclosure around your 3D printer. Reposition the power cable so that it runs through the opening in the back. This enclosure isn't very heavy, so it is easy to reposition and remove from around the printer entirely if needed.
Adding Nuts for the Top Bolts
There are nuts and bolts to secure the top panel of plexiglass to the TOP CORNER and MIDDLE SUPPORTS. However, we like leaving the nuts out of the printed parts and inserting the bolts into the holes from the top of the enclosure to maintain alignment (without screwing them down). This allows you to remove the top easily as well. Feel free to add the nuts if you would like.
Adding the Top Panel of Plexiglass
Next, place the TOP panel of plexiglass on the DELACK. The TOP should fit snugly, but it should still be easily removable. You can add the top bolts now as well.
Rubber Plugs
Add the RUBBER PLUGS to any of the 10 filament access holes that you won't be using.
Add the top bolts (or not), and your DELACK Enclosure is complete!
Just a reminder to consider adding Print #8 (CORNER COVERS) for safety reasons! The corners of the plexiglass are pretty sharp!
Print #8 Assembly (recommended but optional)
Print #8 Assembly
Corner Covers
Add the CORNER COVERS to the DELACK!
Complete!
LIGHT UP YOUR PRINTER
LED LIGHT
We included an LED light with the DELACK Enclosure for a reason! Follow this Assembly Guide to install the LED Light accessory.
TONS OF MODS
DELACK ACCESSORY PRINTS
With a wide range of accessory prints, there's a print for just about any printing setup!