DELACK ASSEMBLY GUIDE

DELACK_render_48322f97-1b85-41a0-a472-8be623d5786d

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for your purchase of the DELACK Enclosure!

Although we tried to make the build as straightforward as possible, we decided to make this assembly guide for the DELACK enclosure so that each step would be easy to follow. If anything seems difficult to understand, please feel free to reach out to us so that we improve the build process for others!

FAQ

What print settings should I use?

For the DELACK Enclosure, we recommend 0.20mm layer height using a 0.4mm nozzle (the standard nozzle on most 3D printers).

We made many features for this layer height and nozzle diameter, so we strongly recommend using these settings in order to get the best results.

How much filament does the enclosure build require?

Approximately 50% of a single 1KG roll will be used to print all DELACK parts if you have no print failures with the print settings listed above.

What type of filament should I use for the printable parts?

You can print the DELACK in any filament that you prefer, but we do recommend printing the LED Light parts in a higher-temperature filament such as PETG or ASA.

How long will the prints take? 

With a Prusa MK4 printing at 0.20 mm layer height with the “Quality” settings selected, the prints take 46 hours (this is the time WITHOUT input shaping).

Good luck getting everything printed before Amazon delivers the kit!

What color should I print the parts for my enclosure?

We printed our example enclosure with PolyMaker PolyLite PLA in Stone Blue. For the LED Light Cover, we used black Prusament PETG.

Be sure to share your build with us on social media!

BILL OF MATERIALS

Review Bill of Materials (BOM)

BOM of DELACK Enclosure

delack BOM for 3d printer enclosure

***You WILL NOT use all of the included fasteners. We have included extras for future accessories and for you to customize your enclosure as needed.***

PLEXIGLASS TIP FOR ASSEMBLY

The plexiglass will come covered in a protective film. OUR CURRENT PROTECTIVE FILM IS TRANSPARENT TO CHECK FOR DEFECTS PRIOR TO SHIPPING. We recommend removing the film around the corners and around the holes as you assemble, but wait until the enclosure is fully assembled to remove the remainder of the film to avoid unnecessary scratches. Also, be careful with the door frame (especially after attaching the door) because this part that can easily be cracked.

To avoid spending an excess amount of time removing the protective wrapping, pull the wrapping TOWARDS you instead of upwards (counterintuitive but it works). This prevents the protective covering from tearing and allows you to remove the majority of the covering in a single piece. 

  • BAD FORM

  • GOOD FORM

NUT INSTALL TIP FOR ASSEMBLY

Some of the steps will involve adding press-fit nuts into the parts. If you are having trouble getting the nuts to fully seat into the part, try this tip where you use a bolt to pull the nut into the correct location.

  • CleanShot_2023-10-24_at_08.49.22_2x_bc97414f-5d83-4806-97fb-5f4d09aea5f9

    STEP 1

    Grab a spare bolt and loosely place the nut in place

  • CleanShot_2023-10-24_at_08.49.45_2x_22fb7a7a-801a-4415-902c-002f13ebd49a

    STEP 2

    Add the bolt to the hole and thread into the nut

  • CleanShot_2023-10-24_at_08.50.04_2x_a077b4c5-c619-4ea9-9805-3b0d0eba1d0b

    STEP 3

    Using an Allen wrench, tighten the bolt until it becomes snug

  • CleanShot_2023-10-24_at_08.50.30_2x_88fd8fa7-a6d0-42fd-a174-06774a203c9c

    STEP 4

    The nut should be pulled into place by the bolt from the opposite site

  • CleanShot_2023-10-24_at_08.50.54_2x_a1d6b176-cf3e-456d-8f0d-39bf57a13980

    STEP 5

    Remove the bolt from the piece and repeat if needed for other nuts

GETTING STARTED

Before we begin with the enclosure assembly, some printers require small modifications in order to function correctly inside of the DELACK Enclosure. Feel free to skip this section if you have a printer that is different from the ones listed below.

*THE PRUSA MK4 & PRUSA MINI DO NOT REQUIRE ANY MODIFICATIONS!

Printer Modifications

Prusa MK2/MK3 Modifications

Head Bed Cable Cover (REQUIRED)

0 - GETTING STARTED -> PRUSA PRINTER MODIFICATIONS -> [PRINTER TYPE] -> PSU WIRE GUIDE REPLACEMENT

Please replace the heat bed cable cover with a new PSU Wire Guide Replacement part set to reduce the stress on the heat bed cable. If you are upgrading from a LACK enclosure, you may have already completed this step. All files were taken from the websites listed below; please refer to the links as needed for assembly.

60 Degree PSU Cover for MK3/MK3S 

30 Degree PSU Cover for MK2/MK2S

Silver PSU Elbow is recommended for MK3/MK3S

POWER SUPPLY UNIT (PSU) Relocation (OPTIONAL)

0 - GETTING STARTED -> PRUSA PRINTER MODIFICATIONS -> [PRINTER TYPE] -> PSU BRACE REPLACEMENT

If you would like to relocate your PSU to a location outside of the enclosure, you will need to print a PSU Brace Replacement part to maintain the printer's rigidity. All files were sourced from the links below.

MK3S PSU Replacement

MK3 PSU Replacement

MK2/2S PSU Replacement

***While it is generally recommended by Prusa to remove the PSU from the enclosure due to the heat exposure on the electronics, we have never had an issue with any of our printers after having the PSU inside of the Universal Enclosure for over 5 years.***

If you would rather add a base to your PSU so it can stand freely, we have a Prusa MK3 Silver PSU Base part available for the original silver PSU for the MK3.

PRUSA MK3 Silver PSU Base

STANDARD BUILD PRINTS

The Standard Build consists of 8 sets of prints. If you print the 8 print sets, you will be able to assemble the entire enclosure. We have created a Standard Build Print List of all required parts for the DELACK Enclosure.

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STANDARD BUILD PRINT LIST

DELACK Standard Build Print List


Print #
File
Quantity
Required?
Variations?
1
FOOT
4
YES
NO
1
TOP CORNER
4
YES
YES
1
SIDE CORNER
4
YES
NO
2
DOOR KNOB
1
YES
NO
2
DOOR KNOB BACK
1
YES
NO
2
BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER
1
YES
YES
2
FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT
1
YES
NO
3
NAMEPLATE
1
YES
YES
4
TOP MIDDLE SUPPORTS
3
YES
YES
5 HINGE ON RIGHT OR LEFT STL SET 2 sets YES YES
6 LATCH SET 2 sets YES NO
7 FAN HOLE COVER 1 NO YES
7
NUT SPACER
4
NO
NO
8 CORNER COVERS 4 NO YES

STANDARD BUILD PART OPTIONS

The prints listed below have various part options, so you should review the prints below to see if you would like to modify your build from the Standard Build.

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Print #1 - TOP CORNER SELECTION

Top Corner Selection

The default print for the 1 - FEET + TOP CORNERS + SIDE CORNERS has the standard TOP CORNER part we recommend most people print.

top corner for delack 3d printer enclosure for prusa mk4 prusa mini prusa mk3

If you are planning to add internal wiring or something like the TP-LINK TAPO or WYZE CAM V3 to your DELACK Enclosure, we recommend printing a TOP CORNER WITH CABLE CHANNEL for better cable management. 

top corner with wire cutout for delack 3d printer enclosure

Print #2 - BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER SELECTION

Back Bottom Wire Cover Selection

The default wire cover is the BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER SINGLE, made for the power cable of the Prusa 3D printer - it fits snugly around the wire, centering it in the middle of the cutout while still allowing you to remove the enclosure from around the printer without unplugging the printer.

BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER SINGLE

back bottom air cover single for delack 3d printer enclosure

 

For anyone who might add additional wires, you can pick from any of the 3 alternative wire covers for various alternative configurations. Another option is to leave the back cutout open, without a wire cover, if you would prefer the maximum amount of space for cables.

 

BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER MULTI - STACKED

delack multi stack wire back cover for 3d printer enclosure

BACK BOTTOM WIRE COVER MULTI - WIDE

multi wide wire cover for delack 3d printer enclosure

BOTTOM WIRE COVER OPEN

open wire cover for delack 3d printer enclosure

 

Print #3 - FRONT NAMEPLATE SELECTION

Front Nameplate Selection

The default print for the 3 - FRONT NAMEPLATE is the print with the filament change. Since this print only takes a total of 24 minutes, it's easy to have the filament swap occur when you are near the printer to change out the filament. We recommend starting with the accent color (black in the example below) and switching the color back to the color you made the rest of the printed parts (blue in our example).

prusaslicer filament swap for delack 3d printer enclosure nameplate

delack nameplate with color change for 3d printer enclosure

If you want to customize the nameplate, a blank STL is available (NAMEPLATE BLANK.stl). This is the STL you should use if you want to add the text using the new embossing feature within PrusaSlicer.

We have also provided the STEP and Fusion 360 files if you want to customize the nameplate in CAD. We recommend extruding the text 0.4mm and adding the filament swap on the 3rd layer using 0.2mm as your layer height.

To add a filament swap, import your model and select "Slice", then move the layer height to 0.60mm (if you have selected 0.2mm layer height) and click the "+" (yellow arrow) to add a filament swap.

adding a filament swap in prusaslicer for 3d printer enclosure nameplate delack

 

Print #4 - TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT SELECTION

Top Middle Support Selection

A variation of the TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT is the TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT WITH CABLE CHANNEL. This print is designed to allow for cable management if you run wires inside of the enclosure. We recommend printing 1 Top Middle Support with Wire Cutout if you plan to add the WYZE CAM MOUNT or TP-LINK MOUNT.
delack top middle support with wire cutout for 3d printer enclosure
Additionally, if you would like to run wires out of the rear of the enclosure (WITHOUT ADDING THE LED LIGHT), consider printing the BACK TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT WITH CABLE CHANNEL.
back top middle support with cable channel for delack 3d printer enclosure

The primary decision to make here is whether or not you would like to add the LED Light accessory print to the DELACK Enclosure. 

If you DO NOT want to add the LED Light, you should print 3 TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT pieces. 

If you DO want to add the LED Light, you should print 2 TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT pieces. 

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE LED ASSEMBLY GUIDE

Alternatively, you could print 1 TOP MIDDLE SUPPORT and print the DELACK HEX CROSSBEAM, which spans the top of the enclosure to add additional support. However, this print is NOT compatible with the LED Light.

Print #5 - HINGE SELECTION

Hinge Selection

There are 2 versions of the hinge. When looking at the front of the enclosure, you will need to choose whether you want the hinge to be on the right or left of the door. 

Hinge on the Left - Door Swings to the Left
3d printer enclosure door swing to left
hinge for 3d printer enclosure with arrow
hinge for 3d printer enclosure to the left
Hinge on the Right - Door Swings to the Right
door hinge with arrow for 3d printer enclosure
door hinge on the right 3d printer enclosure

Print #6 - LATCH SELECTION

Latch Selection

The latches are symmetrical, so there are no alternatives for now! Print on!

delack latch for 3d printer enclosure

The holes for the magnets are precise, so you will need to apply some force for the magnets to fit. The easiest way to press the magnets into place is to use a metal tool with a flat surface. 

magnet insertion into hinge for delack enclosure

Place the magnet on the flat surface of the tool to begin

adding magnet to flat surface of needle nose pliers for delack enclosure

Position the magnet over the hole

magnet insertion into delack latch

positioning magnet over the hole in the latch

Press firmly down on the top of the tool

pressing magnet into the delack latch

The magnet should now be flush with the latch! Make sure you add the magnets so that they attract each other depending on the piece you are working on!

magnet inserts into delack latch

 

Print #7 - FAN COVER SELECTION

Fan Hole Cover Selection

If you DO NOT plan on adding a fan to your enclosure, consider printing a FAN HOLE COVER for the DELACK. For the bolts to fit correctly with the FAN HOLE COVER, you will need to print x4 NUT SPACER prints - these are included in the print set.

fan hole cover for the delack prusa enclosure

If you DO want to add a fan to your 3D printer enclosure, you SHOULD NOT print the Fan Hole Cover. Please choose from the options below:

Option #1: 120mm Fan

You can add a 120mm Noctua Fan without any additional prints; use the screws included in the kit to attach it to the DELACK.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE 120MM FAN ASSEMBLY GUIDE

120mm noctua fan for 3d printer enclosure ventilation

Option #2: 120mm Fan with HEPA Filter

If you would like to add an air filter to your fan setup, use the link below for more details on the HEPA Filter print.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE HEPA FILTER ASSEMBLY GUIDE

Option #3: 120mm Fan with Air Duct Attachment

To add a duct to the DELACK enclosure, print the Air Duct Attachment by following the link below.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE 4-INCH AIR DUCT MOUNT ASSEMBLY GUIDE

air duct for prusa 3d printer enclosure

Option #4: 120mm Fan with HEPA Filter + Air Duct Attachment

For a print set containing a HEPA Filter and an Air Duct Attachment, follow this link.

CLICK HERE TO VIEW THE HEPA + DUCT ASSEMBLY GUIDE

 120mm fan with air duct attachment for 3D printer enclosure with hepa filter

Print #8 - CORNER COVER SELECTION

Corner Cover Selection

While the corner covers are not required for the DELACK enclosure to be functional, we STRONGLY recommend that you use them. There are two options of corner covers to choose from - a version with ribs and a plain version.

Corner Cover with Ribs

3d printer enclosure corner guard with ribs

Corner Cover Plain

 

prusa 3d printer enclosure corner guard plain

Modular Top Corner

If you're looking to add some additional functionality to the corner of your printer, consider adding this Modular Top Corner Accessory Print to your setup.

CLICK HERE FOR THE MODULAR TOP CORNER ASSEMBLY GUIDE

modular top corner accessory print

 

STANDARD BUILD ASSEMBLY

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Print #1 Assembly

Print #1 Assembly

Feet

Before adding the FEET to the plexiglass, insert a rubber plug into each foot. The bottom of the rubber plug should be flat, with the side of the plug with a hole in it facing upwards, as shown below. 

insert rubber plug into feet for 3d printer enclosure

rubber plug with correct orientation for prusa enclosure 3d printer

alternate angle of rubber plug with foot for 3d printer enclosure

Add 2 nuts to each of the FEET as well (using a total of 8 nuts). The nuts should fit snugly, but you may need to use a spare bolt to pull the nut into the hex cutout.

foot with nuts for prusa 3d printer enclosure

After adding the plugs and nuts, add the FEET to the SIDE PANELS. Make sure that you add the FEET to the BOTTOM of the SIDE PANELS. The easiest way to check that you are adding the FEET to the correct side is by putting the FEET on the side of the panel WITHOUT the two holes in the middle (red circle & green circle). These two holes are for the Middle Support pieces, which are for the top of the enclosure.

top vs bottom for side panel feet for prusa 3d printer enclosure mK4

 

After adding the feet, your 3D printer enclosure should look similar to what is pictured below. 

assembly of 3d printer enclosure delack for prusa mini prusa mk4 feet

Top Corners

The TOP CORNERS have a cutout for 3 nuts per piece (2 for the sides and 1 for the top). We recommend adding the two side nuts initially, as the nuts for the top are optional and can sometimes fall out during assembly. 

nuts for top corner of the prusa mk4 prusa mini 3d printer enclosure

Once you've added the nuts to the TOP CORNERS, add the TOP CORNERS to the two side panels using bolts. The TOP CORNERS will be positioned opposite to the FEET (on the same side as the two holes in the middle for the Middle Support). Once completed, both sides should have TOP CORNERS and FEET.

3d printer enclosure delack top corner assembly prusa mini

Side Corners

Next, add 2 nuts to each of the 4 SIDE CORNERS and add these to the SIDE PANELs.

nuts for side corner of delack enclosure for prusa mini

delack 3d printer enclosure side corners assembly prusa mk4

You're done with assembly for Print #1!

Print #2 Assembly

Print #2 Assembly

Door Knob

Add 2 nuts to the DOOR KNOB BACK print.

door knob back for 3d printer enclosure delack prusa mk4

Locate the DOOR plexiglass panel, and determine which direction you would like the door to swing. Using 2 bolts, attach the DOOR KNOB and the DOOR KNOB BACK to the DOOR panel according to your chose swing direction.

door knob for 3d printer enclosure for prusa mk3 mk4 mini

The image below shows a door that will swing to the right.

door for 3d printer enclosure for prusa MINI prusa Mk4

 

 

Back Bottom Wire Cover
Locate the BACK plexiglass panel. Add the BACK BOTTOM SINGLE WIRE COVER to the enclosure as shown below using 2 nuts and 2 bolts. When you add your printer to the setup, you will be able to reposition the wire into the correct position.
back panel of 3d printer enclosure for the prusa mk4 mini mk3
3d printer enclosure cable path for prusa mk4 prusa mini
Front Middle Support
DO NO attach the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT yet - you need to finish Print #3 before attaching it!

Print #3 Assembly

Print #3 Assembly

Nameplate & Front Middle Support (from Print #2)

Slide your NAMEPLATE into the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT from Print #2. Hope you customized it!

delack enclosure faceplate nameplate for 3d printer enclosure

Add the 2 side nuts to the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT - you can add the top nut later.

nuts added to the nameplate on the delack 3d printer enclosure

 

Attach the FRONT MIDDLE SUPPORT to the DOOR FRAME plexiglass piece using 2 bolts.

delack nameplate for 3d printer enclosure for prusa mk4

delack door frame with faceplate 3d printer enclosure

Print #4 Assembly

Print #4 Assembly

Middle Support

After printing your MIDDLE SUPPORTS, add 2 nuts to each MIDDLE SUPPORT and attach them to the SIDE plexiglass panels using bolts.

middle support for delack 3d printer enclosure for prusa mk4 prusa mini

back panel plexiglass for 3d printer enclosure for delack prusa mini prusa mk4

If you decide to go with an alternate arrangement of MIDDLE SUPPORTS as described here, add the MIDDLE SUPPORTS to the relevant locations according to your selection.

 

 

Intermission - Wall Assembly

Wall Assembly

Now, we can assemble the walls of the enclosure. Add the BACK plexiglass panel to one of the SIDE plexiglass panels first. 

delack side panel installation for 3d printer enclosure ikea lack

Next, add the other SIDE plexiglass panel.

both sides added to the delack 3d printer enclosure

Now, add the DOOR FRAME to the front of the enclosure.

all walls assembled on delack 3d printer enclosure prusa

Getting closer!

 

Print #5 Assembly

Print #5 Assembly

Please refer to the link here for determining which HINGE to print. The HINGE print set has manual supports, so you will need to remove the supports from the part prior to installing the HINGE. The supports should break off easily using pliers.  

manual supports to be removed from 3d printer enclosure hinge

removing supports from hinges with needle nose pliers

supports removed from hinges with needle nose pliers for delack 3d printer enclosure

After removing the supports from both sides of the hinge, place the dowel rod into both sets of HINGE parts. The opening of the HINGE where the dowel rod is inserted should be facing upwards when the hinge is in its final position (as shown below). The HINGE will swing more freely over time, so don’t worry if the HINGE initially feels tight. 

 

dowel rod insertion into the DELACK 3d printer enclosure

A trick for pressing the dowel rod into place is to use the side of your needle nose pliers (or any other flat tool) to push the dowel rod into place.

needle nose pliers pressing dowel rod into hinge for 3d printer enclosure

inserting dowel rod using side of needle nose pliers

dowel rod fully assembled into the delack 3d printer enclosure hinge

After adding the dowel rod to both HINGE prints, add nuts (8 in total) to each HINGE BACK print. You may need to use the bolts to pull the nuts into position by tightening them from the opposite side of the part.

back part of hinge for 3d printer enclosure with nuts

Now, attach the HINGE to the DOOR FRAME plexiglass panel. The HINGE BACK part should fit inside the holes in the plexiglass. THIS WILL BE HARD TO TIGHTEN!! We intentionally made these parts tight so that the door would not sag. You can tighten these parts more than the other parts in this build because there is no direct contact between the metal nuts/bolts and the plexiglass (but don't overdo it). 

hinge back inserted into the door frame plexiglass panel

hinge attached to the door frame plexiglass panel for the 3d printer enclosure

both hinges assembled on the delack 3d printer enclosure

Next, add the DOOR plexiglass panel to the HINGES in a similar manner as you did previously. We recommend adding the bolts in the order mentioned below; starting with the lowest bolt lets you rest the other end of the plexiglass panel on the ground, reducing the stress on the DOOR FRAME. 

3d printer enclosure assembly steps for prusa mk4 prusa mini

Now, the door should be swinging freely. If the door does not swing correctly, try to adjust the positioning of the hinges by loosening the bolts slightly, moving the door in the direction needed, and re-tightening. 

prusa 3d printer enclosure delack assembly

Print #6 Assembly

Print #6 Assembly

Latch Set

The most important part of LATCH assembly is to make sure that the magnets are attracting each other. The magnets should fit snugly into the magnet hole, but you may need to use the side of your pliers to press the magnets into place.

delack enclosure magnet door latch

A tip for inserting the magnets is to use the side of the needle nose pliers as shown below to press the magnets into place. It is a tight fit (to prevent the magnets from getting pulled out when you open the door), so you should expect to press pretty firmly. 

magnet on side of needle nose pliers for inserting into latch for 3d printer enclosure

inserting the magnet into the hinge with the side of needle nose pliers

magnet inserted into the hinge of the delack latch 3d printer enclosure

After making sure that the magnets are attracting each other, add the LATCH set with the cutout in the design to the DELACK DOOR FRAME as shown below.

DELACK magnet latch installed on door frame for 3d printer enclosure 

Next, add the LATCH to the DOOR. Double-check that the magnets attract each other before placing them. 

delack 3d printer enclosure for prusa magnet latch assembly 

Now, the DELACK is almost finished!

DELACK enclosure assembly prusa mini Prusa MK4

Print #7 Assembly

Print #7 Assembly

Fan Hole Cover

For information about alternatives to the FAN HOLE COVER, please click here.

To install the FAN HOLE COVER, add 1 nut to each of the 4 NUT SPACER prints.

nut spacer for 3d printer enclosure delack for prusa mk4

Add the FAN HOLE COVER to the BACK plexiglass panel using 4 bolts.

back plexiglass panel with fan hole cover

 

Finishing Touches

Finishing Touches

Adding the Printer

Now is an excellent time to place the enclosure around your 3D printer. Reposition the power cable so that it runs through the opening in the back. This enclosure isn't very heavy, so it is easy to reposition and remove from around the printer entirely if needed.

pursa mk4 enclosure prusa mk3 enclosure

Adding Nuts for the Top Bolts

There are nuts and bolts to secure the top panel of plexiglass to the TOP CORNER and MIDDLE SUPPORTS. However, we like leaving the nuts out of the printed parts and inserting the bolts into the holes from the top of the enclosure to maintain alignment (without screwing them down). This allows you to remove the top easily as well. Feel free to add the nuts if you would like.

nuts for top of the DELACK enclosure

Adding the Top Panel of Plexiglass

Next, place the TOP panel of plexiglass on the DELACK. The TOP should fit snugly, but it should still be easily removable. You can add the top bolts now as well. 

top of the enclosure for prusa mk4 prusa mini

Rubber Plugs

 

Add the RUBBER PLUGS to any of the 10 filament access holes that you won't be using.  

filament access holes for the DELACK enclosure for the ikea lack

 

Add the top bolts (or not), and your DELACK Enclosure is complete! 

final delack enclosure for prusa mk4 ikea lack enclosure

Just a reminder to consider adding Print #8 (CORNER COVERS) for safety reasons! The corners of the plexiglass are pretty sharp!

delack corner covers for prusa ikea lack enclosure

 

Print #8 Assembly (recommended but optional)

Print #8 Assembly

Corner Covers

Add the CORNER COVERS to the DELACK!

delack final assembly with corner covers

Complete!

delack enclosure final fully assembled for ikea lack

delack enclosure for 3d printer alternate view

delack front main completed ikea lack prusa 3d printer enclosure

LIGHT UP YOUR PRINTER

LED LIGHT

We included an LED light with the DELACK Enclosure for a reason! Follow this Assembly Guide to install the LED Light accessory.

VIEW LED ASSEMBLY GUIDE

TONS OF MODS

DELACK ACCESSORY PRINTS

With a wide range of accessory prints, there's a print for just about any printing setup!

VIEW ALL ACCESSORY PRINTS