Curling corners, prints popping off the bed, and cracks running between layers are the classic signs of warping. With ABS and ASA, the cause is almost always temperature, and the fix is a warm, stable, draft-free chamber.
Why ABS and ASA warp
As these plastics cool, they contract. When the bottom of a print has cooled and shrunk while a new hot layer is added on top, the mismatch creates internal stress. That stress pulls corners up off the bed and, on taller prints, splits layers apart. The wider and taller the part, the worse it gets.
The fix: a warm, stable chamber
The goal is to keep the whole print close to the same temperature for the entire job so it cools slowly and evenly. That means:
- Trap the heat. An enclosure lets the printer's own heat raise the ambient temperature around the part, dramatically reducing contraction stress.
- Eliminate drafts. Even a warm room can ruin an ABS print if a vent or doorway sends cool air across the bed. Enclosing the printer removes that.
- Let it heat-soak. Give the closed chamber a few minutes to come up to temperature before starting a large print.
Dial in the basics too
An enclosure does the heavy lifting, but pair it with solid fundamentals: a clean bed with good adhesion, an appropriate bed temperature for your filament, a slow and well-squished first layer, and minimal part cooling for ABS and ASA.
Do not forget ventilation
A warmer chamber means more concentrated fumes. Print in a space you can ventilate, and choose an enclosure that lets you add a vent or filter. Our enclosures are designed to be ventilation-ready with modular accessory mounts.
Enclosure options
If you are fighting warping on a Prusa MK4, Mini, MK3, or a Bambu Lab A1 Mini, the DELACK enclosure is built for those machines. For the larger Prusa XL, see the SUMO enclosure. Both ship as complete hardware kits with downloadable printable parts.